💆 CONDITIONER BAR — Universal / Unscented
POURABLE 🌙 MOON CONDITIONER BAR
Universal • Unscented • 510 g batch
🌙 FORMULA — 510 g
Conditioning Base
BTMS-50 — 75 g (14.7%)
Cetearyl alcohol — 110 g (21.6%)
Butters
Cocoa butter — 40 g (7.8%)
Oils
Argan oil — 25 g (4.9%)
Liquids
Distilled water — 42.5 g (8.3%)
Glycerin — 30 g (5.9%)
Actives
Panthenol — 10 g (2.0%)
Silk amino acids — 5 g (1.0%)
Comfort & Color
Colloidal oatmeal — 10 g (2.0%)
Goat milk powder — 10 g (2.0%)
Calendula powder — 4 g (0.8%)
Kaolin clay — 2 g (0.4%)
Preservation
Neodefend — 3.5 g (0.7%)
TOTAL: 510 g
✔ Still pourable
✔ Still firm after cure
✔ Far more universally usable
✔ Better rinse-out
✔ Less wax drag
4️⃣ UPDATED PROCESS (Cleaner & Safer)
1️⃣ Melt oil phase
BTMS-50 + cetearyl + cocoa butter
Heat to 160–165°F
Fully melted, not cooked
2️⃣ Heat liquids
Water + glycerin → 155–160°F
Dissolve:
panthenol
silk amino acids
Disperse powders into glycerin portion
3️⃣ Combine
Add hot liquids into oil phase
Stir until smooth
Maintain 155–160°F
Texture: thick custard / heavy cream
4️⃣ Cool & preserve
Cool to ≤140°F
Add Neodefend
Stir gently
5️⃣ Pour
Pour at 140–150°F
Tap molds
Spray alcohol if desired
6️⃣ Set & cure
Set: 48–72 hours
Cure: 10–14 days
5️⃣ Final alignment with your overall system
✔ Shampoo: functional, herbal, pale green
✔ Conditioner: comforting, neutral, oat-gold
✔ Visual distinction is clear
✔ Sensory distinction is clear
✔ Works for kids, adults, sensitive users
✔ No unnecessary fragrance load
🌙 UNIVERSAL CONDITIONER BAR — PRESSED VERSION
Unscented • All hair types • Adult & child safe
Batch size: 500 g (~6–7 bars @ 70–85 g)
Target pH: 4.5–5.0
Design goals (why this works)
Presses cleanly with crisp edges
No water → strong, long-lasting bars
Slip without wax drag
Rinses clean in hard water
Calm, oat-milk comfort
Truly universal (fine, thick, curly, straight)
This is a “make once, never rethink” conditioner.
🧪 FORMULA — 500 g
PHASE A — Conditioning structure
BTMS-50 — 100 g (20%)
Cetearyl alcohol — 120 g (24%)
Cetyl alcohol — 30 g (6%)
This ratio gives glide + strength without heaviness.
PHASE B — Emollients
Cocoa butter (or mango) — 45 g (9%)
Vanilla-infused jojoba oil — 20 g (4%)
One butter, one oil = elegant feel, no buildup.
PHASE C — Humectants & strength
Glycerin — 30 g (6%)
Liquid panthenol (50–75%) — 10 g (2%)
Hydrolyzed oat or silk protein — 5 g (1%)
PHASE D — Comfort & chelation
Colloidal oatmeal — 10 g (2%)
Goat milk powder — 10 g (2%)
Sodium citrate — 2.5 g (0.5%)
PHASE E — Color (optional, warm oat tone)
Calendula powder — 4 g (0.8%)
Kaolin clay — 3.5 g (0.7%)
(Total color = 1.5% — perfect for conditioner)
TOTAL: 500 g
✔ No essential oils
✔ No added water
✔ Stable, forgiving, scalable
🔥 PROCESS — PRESSED CONDITIONER (CALM & FAST)
1️⃣ Melt base
Combine Phase A + Phase B
Heat gently to 145–155°F (63–68°C)
Everything fully melted
Soft, glossy mass
Do not exceed 160°F (protects proteins & milk)
2️⃣ Prepare powders & actives
Warm glycerin to 140°F and dissolve:
panthenol
protein
sodium citrate
In a small portion of glycerin, fully disperse:
oatmeal
goat milk powder
calendula
kaolin
Never add dry powders directly — this keeps the bar silky.
3️⃣ Combine
Add glycerin mixture to melted base.
Knead thoroughly (spatula or gloved hands).
Dough should be:
Smooth
Warm
Cohesive
Not sticky
Not crumbly
Adjust if needed:
Crumbly → mist 1–2 g glycerin, knead
Sticky → let cool 1–2 minutes
4️⃣ Press
Dough temp: 100–115°F
Load 75–85 g per mold
Press 8–12 seconds
Rest in mold 3–5 minutes
Unmold cleanly
5️⃣ Cure
Handle same day
Best performance after 5–7 days
Hardens further over 2 weeks
OPTIONAL MICRO-TWEAKS (ONLY IF NEEDED)
Very fine hair: Reduce cocoa butter to 35 g, increase cetearyl +10 g
Very curly / coarse hair: Increase jojoba to 25 g, reduce cetearyl −5 g
Ultra-sensitive scalp: Keep exactly as written (this is already very gentle)
Original Plan:
Shampoo: pale green clay tint, rosemary infused
👉 0.5–1.0% max colored powders in shampoo
Shampoo EO blend (8 g total)
Rosemary EO: 4 g
Cedarwood: 2 g
Cypress: 1.2 g
Bergamot FCF: 0.4 g
Vanilla CO₂ (optional): 0.4 g
Conditioner: warm cream/oat tone, unscented
calendula powder would shine here also for a soft golden tone, along with kaolin clay
0.5–1.5% colored powders in conditioner
Butter can also be jojobo (infused with vanilla).
For example, with butter total = 80 g
Use:
60 g butter
20 g vanilla-infused jojoba
Pressed | 2” rounds (~80 g each) | Batch: 800 g (10 bars)
pH target: 4.5–5.0
Design intent
Universal (all hair types, all users)
No essential oils
Oat + goat milk comfort
Vanilla warmth from infusion only
Length-focused, not heavy
This bar pairs with any shampoo.
FORMULA (800 g)
Phase A — Conditioning base
BTMS-50 — 80 g (10%)
Cetearyl alcohol — 96 g (12%)
Cetyl alcohol — 64 g (8%)
Phase B — Emollients
Butter (mango or cocoa) — 60 g (7.5%)
Vanilla-infused jojoba oil — 20 g (2.5%)
Phase C — Humectants & strength
Glycerin — 48 g (6%)
Panthenol — 16 g (2%)
Hydrolyzed protein — 16 g (2%)
Phase D — Comfort additives
Colloidal oatmeal — 16 g (2%)
Goat milk powder — 16 g (2%)
Sodium citrate — 4 g (0.5%)
PROCESS — CONDITIONER BAR (Pressed)
1️⃣ Melt base
Combine Phase A + Phase B
Heat gently to 140–150°F (60–65°C)
MAX 160°F (71°C)
(Protects milk proteins & infusion)
Mixture should be soft, glossy, dough-like.
2️⃣ Prepare powders
Warm 48g glycerin to 140°F
Dissolve:
panthenol (in its own batch with 15 g glycerin alone)
protein
sodium citrate
In a small portion of glycerin, disperse:
goat milk powder
colloidal oatmeal
(no dry powders added directly)
IF Adding coloring:
Take a portion of your glycerin
Shampoo: 5–10 g
Conditioner: 10–15 g
Warm glycerin to 140–150°F
Not hotter
Do NOT boil
Add powder slowly:
Stir until completely smooth
No specks
Add this slurry to your warm dough
Knead thoroughly
Press immediately
This prevents:
streaking
weak spots
crumbly bars
3️⃣ Combine
Add glycerin mixtures to base, one at a time
Knead thoroughly
Texture should be smooth, pliable, non-crumbly
4️⃣ Prep Press
Prep (this is where time is saved)
Before you press anything:
Portion all 10 bar doses (80 g each)
Keep dough warm (100–115°F)
Covered bowl
Warm room
Heating pad under bowl if needed
Pressing cycle Bar #1
Load mold
Press firmly (20–30 sec)
Set mold aside (timer starts)
Bar #2
Reload mold
Press
Set aside next to #1
Repeat until:
You’ve pressed 2–3 bars
Now go back to bar #1. Bar #1 has rested ~4–6 minutes
For 10 bars:
First 3 bars: ~6–8 minutes total
Then each bar adds ~1–2 minutes
Entire batch: ~25–35 minutes
Press
Warm your bar dough to ~100–115°F before pressing
Best: Arbor Press, $50 to $100
with flat plate:
“steel round blank 2.5 inch”
“aluminum disc blank”
“steel strike plate disc”
Press until:
The lever stops moving easily
Resistance increases noticeably
Hold at full pressure 5–10 seconds
Release
Leave the bar in the mold for 2–3 minutes
Tip: Have a second mold ready while the other is setting
Target pressure: ~500–800 lb force
For 2” rounds:
75–85 g per cavity
Overfill slightly
Level loosely with fingers
Do not pre-pack tightly — pressure should do the work.
Release slowly
Even if using a machine, let it rest 5-10 seconds in the pressed position. (for best edges)
Pro trick, can double press, lightly. Rotate bar 180° F after first press, and press again for 3–5 sec (evens density)
Hand pressing with a single mold:
Lightly mist mold with alcohol
Line with saran wrap on both top and bottom
Lay a single thin layer of plastic wrap
Press through the wrap
Peel off immediately after pressing
Dough temp matters: 100–115°F
If the dough is too cool → it needs to set overnight in the mold
If too warm → it domes and sticks
Load ~80 g per cavity
Press firmly 8–12 seconds
(Conditioners need slightly longer)Rest 2-5 minutes (IN THE MOLD if hand pressed)
will continue to firm another 10 minutes
Unmold carefully
Cure
Ready in 2–3 days
Improves slip after 5–7 days
🌙 MOON Conditioning Bar - POURABLE VERSION (510g batch)
Modified Recipe:
Conditioning Base:
BTMS-50: 125g (24.5%)
Cetearyl alcohol: 150g (29.4%)
Butters:
Cocoa butter: 40g (7.8%)
Shea butter: 40g (7.8%)
Oils:
Argan oil: 25g (4.9%)
Coconut oil: 15g (2.9%)
Moisturizers:
Glycerin: 50g (9.8%)
Panthenol: 15g (2.9%)
Actives:
Silk amino acids: 4g (0.8%)
Liquids: ← CHANGED
Distilled water: 42.5g (8.3%) ← +10g from original 32.5g
Preservation:
Neodefend: 3.5g (0.7%)
Scent (optional):
Vanilla: 5g (1%)
Sweet Orange: 5g (1%)
Total: 520g → adjust to 510g by using 32.5g water Wait, let me recalculate...
Actually: 510g total ← +10g water added
Process (Pour Method):
1. Melt phase (170-180°F): ← HOTTER
BTMS, cetearyl, cocoa butter, shea, coconut oil
Heat until fully melted
Keep very hot
2. Heat water:
Warm 42.5g water to 170°F ← increased water
3. Combine:
Add hot water to melted butters
Whisk smooth
Should be very fluid (like thick cream)
Maintain 160-170°F
4. Add at 160°F:
Glycerin
Panthenol
Silk amino acids
Argan oil (if not added earlier)
Mix quickly
5. Cool to 140°F, add:
Essential oils (if using)
Neodefend
Mix well
6. POUR into moon molds: ← POUR!
Working temp: 140-150°F
Pour smoothly
Fill completely
Tap to remove bubbles
7. Set 48-72 hours, cure 10-14 days ← longer cure