Why Thoughtfully Made Shampoo & Conditioner Bars Matter
Shampoo itself does not "cause" hair loss, but it can cause chronic irritation, buildup, and friction—and those absolutely increase shedding and breakage over time. But that's just the surface. What we really need to talk about is what's hiding in these products and who pays the price.
This article’s aim is to support hair, health, equity, and the world we share.
We live in a time of extraordinary freedom. We have access to the best — and the worst — all at once. We have more freedom and access than anyone else in history, and we suffer some of the worst consequences of that freedom. In the U.S., we can buy almost anything, at any time, in any form. That includes hair care. Shelves are full of bottles promising shine, volume, growth, repair, youth. That freedom is real. But it comes with responsibility.
Because when it comes to something as intimate and repetitive as shampoo and conditioner — the stuff you put directly on your body (on average about 6-12 products a day), used several times a week, for decades, starting in early childhood — small decisions add up.
That’s why I care about how shampoo and conditioner are made. I started with food, then lotions, then hair care. Not because it’s simple, but because it matters.
What Most Store-Bought Shampoos Are Actually Built For
Most conventional liquid shampoos are designed around a few core realities:
They’re mostly water — often 70 to 85 percent. With water, you have to protect from mold.
They need to sit on shelves for years. They have to work for as many people as possible. They have to be cheap to manufacture at scale. They are full of plastics in the production and handling, which leach into the product, and your body. And they have to feel impressive immediately — lots of foam, lots of scent, lots of slip.
To do that, many rely on strong surfactants, LOTS of fragrance, silicone coatings, and preservative systems chosen for shelf life, not long-term scalp health. For many people, these products work well enough. We have grown to pick based on the smell. But for others — for those who care what enters their body, and especially those dealing with irritation, breakage, or hair thinning — these additions quietly make things worse.
Shampoo itself does not “cause” hair loss, but chronic irritation, buildup, and friction increase shedding and breakage over time.
Why a Well-Made Shampoo Bar Is Different
A properly formulated shampoo bar (or a traditional soap with ACV rinse) starts from a different place.
It doesn’t have liquids that require harsh preservatives that water based products do.
It’s designed to match the natural pH of the scalp and hair.
It doesn’t rely on excess fragrance to feel luxurious.
It rinses clean, even in “hard” water. (google your zipcode to see if this applies to you)
It lasts a long time.
It doesn’t require a plastic bottle.
It is easy to travel with!
It doesn’t pollute the environment.
Store-bought bars can be great — or not. Some are simply solid versions of the same harsh systems used in liquid shampoos. The format alone doesn’t make something better. The philosophy behind it does.
That’s why sourcing matters. Whether you make your own or buy from someone who’s done the research, the difference is intention.
Making Your Own — or Supporting Someone Who Does
When you make shampoo and conditioner bars yourself, or buy from a small, careful maker, you gain something that’s hard to put a price on: clarity.
Someone cares about everything that is in it. Each ingredient has a purpose.
The upfront cost may be higher: ingredients, equipment, time, learning. But over time, the cost per bar drops dramatically. Waste goes down. Quality goes up. And knowledge expands.
If you don’t have the time or desire to make your own, supporting people who do is just as meaningful. You’re supporting hands-on work. Research. Care. Slower growth in exchange for integrity.
Profit itself isn’t the problem.
Profit that depends on harm is.
Essential Oils
Essential oils are natural, but they are not neutral. It takes hundreds, sometimes thousands, of pounds of plant material to make one tiny bottle of essential oil. That's a concentration our bodies have never encountered in nature.
At low, thoughtful levels (under 1.5% per recipe), essential oils can be helpful. But many products use 5%, 8%, even 10% or more. That's excessive.
The research is clear: heavy, repeated topical exposure to certain essential oils—particularly lavender and tea tree—has been linked to hormone-related effects in children, including breast development in young boys (Henley et al., NEJM 2007; Ramsey et al., 2019).
These were extreme cases—daily use for months or years. But the scary part is that blood hormone levels appeared normal even as these boys developed breast tissue. This means our modern testing methods are inadequate.
Synthetic Fragrances: The Hidden Burden
Then there are synthetic fragrances—the word "fragrance" or "parfum" on a label.
Every day, Americans use products with hidden fragrance chemicals:
Women: 12 products daily
Men: 6 products daily
Teenagers: 15 products daily (the worst time for this exposure)
A 2010 study found fragrance products contained an average of 14 hormone-disrupting ingredients per product—and 84% weren't listed on label. They get a pass because they're protected as "trade secrets."
Kids exposed to phthalates (hidden in "fragrance") show:
Lower IQ scores
Behavioral problems
Earlier puberty in girls
Genital abnormalities in boys
Increased allergies and asthma
During pregnancy, phthalates cross the placenta freely, showing up in amniotic fluid. They're associated with preterm birth, low birth weight, and neurodevelopmental issues.
But here's the hope: A recent study found that women with no history of breast cancer saw breast cancer gene expression DROP after just 28 days of removing certain personal care products—deodorants, skincare, shampoos—all containing phthalates hidden under "fragrance." In just one month, our bodies begin to heal.
Twenty-eight days. That's how quickly our bodies respond.
Any adult can do without hormone disruption. But we need to better protect our kids. Children have thinner skin, higher surface-area-to-body-weight ratios, developmental windows that are very hormone-sensitive.
This isn't about demonizing lavender or banning all scent. It's about dose, frequency, transparency, and paying attention during the most vulnerable windows of life.
Who Bears the Chemical Burden?
Nowhere is this burden heavier than in Black communities.
Communities with textured and curly hair — especially Black and other minority communities — have historically been exposed to heavier product use, stronger fragrances, more chemical treatments, and more endocrine-active ingredients.
There is growing concern about early puberty in young girls—sometimes beginning shockingly early—and researchers believe cumulative chemical exposure from personal care products is driving this trend.
It has been clearly established that Black girls in the U.S. enter puberty earlier on average than white girls—earlier breast development, earlier pubic hair, earlier first periods. And this comes with serious consequences.
The numbers tell a stark story:
By age 6: 14.3% of Black girls vs. 3.7% of white girls had already started developing breasts or pubic hair (Pediatrics, 1997)
By age 7: 23% of Black girls vs. 10% of white girls showed breast development (Berkeley/UCSF study)
Most alarming: Documented cases of breast development starting as early as 3.5 years old, with accelerated bone age. The young girls that experienced this had been using hair relaxing treatments for very curly hair.
Why age 4 cases are taken so seriously
When puberty starts that early, risks include:
Shorter adult height (growth plates close early)
Psychological distress
Increased lifetime exposure to estrogen
Higher risk of certain hormone-related conditions later in life
The hair product connection:
Hair oil use = 40% higher odds of earlier menarche
Hair oil use = 2x odds of first period before age 11
All 18 tested hair products for Black women contained 4-30 endocrine disruptors each
84% of chemicals weren't listed on labels
72% contained parabens and phthalates
Children's relaxers had the highest levels of EU-banned chemicals
Why is early puberty a problem?
You might think, "What's the big deal about getting your period a year or two early?"
It's more than cosmetic. Much more.
Early puberty isn't just about starting periods sooner. It's about a child's body maturing faster than their brain and emotional capacity can handle. It's about decades of increased disease risk. It's about disrupted social, educational, and psychological development. And it's about a lifetime of health consequences, including significantly higher cancer risk.
As one researcher put it: "We should be thinking about this, not just normalizing these disparities."
Physical Consequences
The immediate effects show up in growth and development.
Shorter Adult Height Girls who enter puberty early experience accelerated bone maturation. Their growth plates close sooner. The result? Shorter final adult height. It's as if the body gets distracted from growing optimally.
Weight and Body Composition Early puberty is strongly linked with higher weight throughout life. Girls who mature early show higher BMI in adulthood and increased risk of obesity that persists for decades.
Cancer Risks
This is where the long-term danger becomes undeniable.
Breast Cancer Women who get their first period before age 12 have a 19-50% higher lifetime risk of breast cancer compared to those who start later. Each year earlier adds another 5% to that risk.
Endometrial Cancer Early menarche increases endometrial cancer risk by 40%.
Other Cancers The list continues: ovarian cancer (17% higher risk), liver cancer, colon cancer, lung cancer, melanoma, and bladder cancer. All elevated.
Why? Longer lifetime exposure to estrogen. More ovulatory cycles. More opportunities for things to go wrong at the cellular level.
Mental Health
The psychological toll is devastating—and often invisible.
Depression and Anxiety Girls with early puberty have significantly higher rates of depression and anxiety that persist into young adulthood. One study found that 81% of early maturers who had adolescent behavioral problems experienced depression in young adulthood.
Substance Abuse Early-maturing girls are more likely to engage in cigarette smoking, alcohol use, and drug abuse.
Behavioral Problems Higher levels of self-reported criminality, social isolation, conduct disorders, and psychiatric problems. The patterns start young and can entrench themselves.
Body Image Increased risk of eating disorders, body dysmorphia, and low self-esteem. These girls don't look like their peers. They don't feel like their peers. And the dissonance creates suffering.
The Brain-Body Mismatch
Perhaps the most damaging aspect is the disconnect between physical and emotional maturity.
The Brain Isn't Ready During puberty, massive brain changes occur. Brain function is influenced heavily by hormones. The brain uses about 25% of all our energy—a quarter of everything we consume. It's still developing critical components for decision-making, emotional regulation, and impulse control.
When Puberty Happens Too Early: The neural systems governing sleep, concentration, appetite, and sensation-seeking get disrupted. They don't form appropriately. Hormones like dopamine—linked to depression symptoms—surge before any emotional regulation has the chance to develop. The brain and body simply aren't ready for puberty yet.
The Social Consequences When a girl LOOKS older, she's treated as if she IS older. This creates inappropriate expectations. Adults expect more maturity. Peers may ostracize her for looking different. She may be exposed to social and sexual situations before she has the cognitive and emotional tools—and training—to handle them.
Increased Vulnerability:
Bullying and social isolation
Sexual harassment and unwanted attention
Risk of sexual abuse (especially when adults treat them as older)
Early sexual activity (risk more than doubles when menarche occurs at age 10 or earlier)
Exposure to mature behaviors—drugs, alcohol, sex—before they're emotionally ready
The body says "woman." The brain says "child." And the girl is caught in between, experiencing intense hormonal changes and overwhelming feelings without having developed appropriate coping mechanisms.
Long-Term Impact
The consequences ripple out across entire lives.
Educational Disruption Girls with early puberty are more likely to become distracted sooner. Lower educational attainment. Less time to develop academic skills before adult responsibilities arrive.
Economic Disadvantage Less education often means less income. More reliance on a partner or other support structures. Reduced economic mobility.
Early Pregnancy Higher rates of teenage pregnancy, which compounds every other challenge—interrupted education, economic strain, limited career options.
Reproductive Issues Longer time to achieve regular menstrual cycles, which is associated with fertility problems later. Some research suggests earlier menopause.
Cardiovascular and Metabolic Disease Higher risk of type 2 diabetes, heart disease, high blood pressure, and high cholesterol.
All-Cause Mortality For every year earlier that menarche occurs, there's a 3% increase in all-cause mortality. Early puberty literally shortens lives.
The Compound Effect on Black Girls
This is where individual health becomes a justice issue.
Black girls experience early puberty at higher rates than white girls. But they also face every additional burden that makes those consequences worse:
Systemic Racism and Discrimination Chronic stress from racism itself accelerates puberty. Discrimination is measured in the body—in cortisol levels, in inflammatory markers, in accelerated aging.
Higher Chemical Exposure Black women and girls have higher exposure to endocrine-disrupting chemicals in hair products. Products marketed specifically to them contain more harmful ingredients. They're targeted with the very products that harm them most.
Less Access to Medical Care Fewer resources for diagnosis and treatment. Less likely to have insurance. Less likely to be taken seriously when they seek help.
Medical Bias Doctors dismiss early puberty as "normal for Black girls" instead of recognizing it as precocious puberty requiring intervention. This bias means Black girls don't get the puberty blockers, the monitoring, the support that could change their trajectory.
Community-Level Stressors In Black communities, half of all children are raised without a father. The pollution burden is highest. Income starts lower and stays lower. Families can only access the most polluted environments with the fewest resources to educate and help. Advertising dollars are spent more heavily in minority communities, targeting various low income groups as 'super users'—the industry's term for their most profitable customers—promoting cheap products that complete the cycle of harm.
In a study on train station advertising space, the most advertisements for food and products doing the most harm were in the communities that had the lowest income. People with the least money spend the most money on harmful products.
All the Health Consequences Hit Harder Every single risk factor we've discussed—cancer, mental health issues, educational disruption, economic disadvantage—disproportionately impacts Black girls and women. The disparities don't just add up. They multiply.
The Bottom Line
Early puberty isn't a harmless quirk of development. Research shows it increases lifetime breast cancer risk by up to 50%, endometrial cancer by 40%, and significantly elevates risks of depression, anxiety, and substance abuse. Girls who start puberty early face higher risks of cardiovascular disease, diabetes, and all-cause mortality throughout life.
Perhaps most troubling: these young girls experience intense hormonal changes before their brains have developed the tools to cope, leaving them vulnerable to trauma, early sexual activity, and lifelong psychological consequences.
This is why reducing chemical exposures during critical developmental windows isn't being overly cautious. It's being appropriately protective of children during the most vulnerable stages of growth.
In summary: Cumulative exposure to endocrine-active chemicals during early childhood may contribute to earlier pubertal timing. And our typical shampoos and skin care products carry the chemicals that are known to mess with out endocrine (hormone) system.
Real Equity Starts in the Womb
If we want to talk about equity, real equity starts early. Not affirmative action when our children reach college age. It starts with protecting developing bodies. It starts when they are in their mom’s womb.
If we care, we should care about reducing unnecessary chemical burden during critical windows of growth.
If we want to help people thrive later in life, we should start by not overloading them when their systems are still forming.
Why These Specific Bars Are Formulated the Way They Are
The shampoo bar I’m making was designed with all of this in mind:
Essential oils capped below 1.5 percent (if any are used) — far lower than many handmade products
No estrogen-associated oils (down to just citrusy and vanilla blends)
For adults, I use Rosemary oil intentionally, for scalp support and hair loss, NOT for fragrance. Benefits can be achieved with essential oils well under 1%.
Gentle chemicals (called surfactants) that rinse clean
A pH that supports the scalp
These products do not promise hair regrowth, but they do set up the environment for hair to grow in without burden. It’s about reducing irritation, inflammation, and breakage, which are the quiet contributors to hair loss.
I like to use things like oatmeal and goat milk, infused botanicals like marshmallow root and rosemary where appropriate.
Building products this way means they are safe for adults, children, and sensitive users of all hair types.
Environmental Responsibility
This isn’t a bonus — it should be the Baseline
Shampoo and conditioner bars use less packaging, less water, and less fuel to transport. They last longer. They’re easy to travel with. You can take them camping.
And yes — even biodegradable products should never be dumped directly into waterways. Responsibility doesn’t stop at “natural.”
Still, compared to water-based shampoos containing persistent chemicals that don’t break down, a thoughtfully made bar is a meaningful step forward.
We live in a shared ecosystem. What builds up in the environment eventually builds up in us. We drink from that well water we are otherwise poisoning.
Choosing What — and Who — We Support
We’ve built systems — in food, healthcare, and personal care — that depend on us coming back because something wasn’t quite right the first time.
I want people coming back to my products because they love something about it. Because it made their life easier. Because it respected their body. I don’t care about temporary pleasure, I want it to smell good, feel good, and treat you well from the inside out.
I also want to buy and learn from people who care about soil health, animal health, and human health — because all those things are inseparable.
We have immense freedom in this country, including the freedom to fail. We also have access to the best and the worst. A very small number of people at the top make most of the profit, while the costs are spread quietly across bodies and communities.
I’m not against profit. I’m against profit that hurts others.
You don’t need to make everything yourself. You don’t need to reject modern life. But when it comes to something you use over and over, for decades, intention matters.
Thoughtfully made shampoo and conditioner bars — whether homemade or sourced carefully — offer simplicity, transparency, and a lighter load on both our bodies and the planet.
Sometimes the most powerful choices are the quiet ones—the ones we make every single day. The ones that protect the children who can't yet protect themselves. These are the choices that make an impact.
This isn't meant to scare you into submission. It's meant to empower you with knowledge and give you actionable steps—starting with what you put on and in your body, and the bodies of those you love.
Resources
Victoria’s Safe Essential Oil List:
Oils that are safe and non-estrogenic:
✓ Grapefruit (but can increase sun sensitivity on skin)
✓ Orange (citrusy scents do not have as long lasting power)
✓ Lemon
✓ Lime
✓ Vanilla CO2 (only a small fraction, like 15% at most of real vanilla scent, so often made with synthetics)
✓ Nutmeg (in low amounts)
✓ Eucalyptus (radiata)
✓ Cedarwood (atlas)
✓ Ginger
✓ Lemongrass
✓ Cardamom
✓ Coffee
✓ Rosemary
✓ Frankincense
also great: coffee, vanilla bean, calendula (and other flowers…), clays