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Stained Glass Soap

METHOD 1: Melt & Pour (Easiest, Most Translucent)

This is what most people use for stained glass because:

  • ✓ Naturally translucent/transparent

  • ✓ Remeltable (forgiving for mistakes)

  • ✓ No saponification wait time

  • ✓ Holds crisp lines perfectly

What you need:

  • Clear glycerin melt & pour base (can be all-natural)

  • Black melt & pour for outlines

  • Soap colorants (micas, oxides)

  • Squeeze bottles or piping bags

  • Loaf mold or slab mold

All-Natural M&P Options:

  • Stephenson Organic Melt & Pour

  • SFIC Natural Clear Glycerin Base

  • Look for bases with: glycerin, coconut oil, palm oil (sustainable), water

METHOD 2: Cold Process (Your Tallow Base - More Challenging)

This is MUCH harder but possible with your tallow soap:

The Challenge:

  • CP soap is naturally opaque

  • You need VERY high water content to get translucency

  • Takes 4-6 weeks to cure before it becomes semi-transparent

  • Less forgiving - one mistake means rebatch

How to make CP translucent:

Formula adjustments:

  • Use 40-50% castor oil (creates translucency)

  • Add 50-100% extra water (makes soap "see-through" when cured)

  • Use minimal titanium dioxide

  • Soap at very low temperatures (90-100°F)

Example Translucent CP Recipe:

  • 40% Castor oil

  • 30% Coconut oil

  • 20% Olive oil

  • 10% Tallow (for hardness)

  • 40% lye concentration (lots of water)

  • Cure 6-8 weeks minimum

What You Need for the Technique:

  • Squeeze bottles

  • Small piping bags or bottles

  • Sculpting tools or skewers

  • Slab mold or loaf mold

  • Freezer paper

Ingredients for Black Outlines:

  • Activated charcoal (all-natural black)

  • Black oxide (more intense, also natural mineral)

  • Make outline soap THICKER (less water) so it holds shape

Colorants for "Stained Glass" Effect:

Best for translucency:

  • Micas with transparency (not opaque ones)

  • Liquid soap dyes (if using M&P)

  • Oxide colorants (very small amounts)

  • Natural options: Alkanet root (purple), annatto (yellow/orange), spirulina (green)

Step-by-Step Process:

For Melt & Pour (Recommended):

  1. Make black outline soap:

    • Melt clear M&P base

    • Add activated charcoal

    • Pour thin layer (1/4") in mold, let harden

    • Pipe/squeeze black lines to create "cells" for colors

    • Let harden completely

  2. Fill colored sections:

    • Melt clear M&P in separate containers

    • Color each batch (blue, red, yellow, green, etc.)

    • Pour carefully into each "cell" between black lines

    • Use squeeze bottle or pour from measuring cup

    • Squeegee top to smooth

  3. Let harden & unmold:

    • Wait 2-4 hours

    • Unmold and slice

    • Each slice shows the stained glass pattern!

For Cold Process (Advanced):

  1. Make black outline soap first:

    • Make small batch with charcoal

    • Use THICK trace (like mashed potatoes)

    • Pipe into mold to create cells

    • Let sit 12-24 hours until firm

  2. Make colored translucent soap:

    • High castor, high water recipe

    • Divide into colors

    • Pour at THIN trace into cells

    • Spray with alcohol between pours to prevent separation

  3. Cure 6-8 weeks:

    • Wait for translucency to develop

    • Soap will become more see-through as it cures

My Honest Recommendation:

Start with all-natural Melt & Pour for stained glass technique:

Why:

  • ✓ Immediate results (no 6-week wait)

  • ✓ Can be all-natural (organic glycerin bases exist)

  • ✓ Forgiving (can remelt mistakes)

  • ✓ Actually looks like stained glass (translucent)

  • ✓ Crisp, clean lines

  • ✓ Less waste/frustration

Keep your tallow CP soap for:

  • Regular bar soap

  • Swirls and layers

  • Embeds in M&P stained glass (best of both worlds!)

Hybrid Approach (Best of Both Worlds):

Make tallow CP soap embeds + M&P stained glass:

  1. Make small tallow CP shapes (stars, hearts, flowers)

  2. Cure them 4 weeks

  3. Embed them IN the M&P stained glass cells

  4. Result: Natural tallow soap pieces suspended in translucent "glass"

This gives you:

  • Your beloved tallow formula

  • The stunning visual effect

  • All-natural ingredients

  • Easy technique

Shopping List for Stained Glass M&P:

  • 2-3 lbs clear glycerin M&P base (organic/natural)

  • 1/2 lb white M&P base

  • Activated charcoal (for black lines)

  • 3-5 mica colors or natural colorants

  • Squeeze bottles (3-4)

  • Loaf mold or slab mold

How to Make Your Own Melt & Pour Base

You essentially make hot process soap with extra glycerin and solvents to create the translucent, remeltable properties.

Basic DIY M&P Recipe (Makes ~2 lbs):

Oils:

  • Coconut oil: 227g (35%)

  • Castor oil: 195g (30%)

  • Tallow: 130g (20%)

  • Stearic acid: 97g (15%)

Lye Solution:

  • Lye (NaOH): 102g

  • Distilled water: 244g

Additives (what makes it M&P):

  • Glycerin: 195g (30% of oil weight)

  • Sugar solution: 65g sugar dissolved in 130g hot water

  • Alcohol (190 proof or 91% rubbing alcohol): 97g

Process:

  1. Make hot process soap:

    • Mix lye + water, let cool

    • Melt oils to 160-180°F

    • Combine, stick blend to trace

    • Cook in crockpot on low 1-2 hours (until paste tests clear with zap test)

  2. Add transparency agents:

    • While still hot (170°F+), add glycerin

    • Stir in sugar solution

    • Add alcohol slowly (will bubble!)

    • Stir constantly for 20-30 minutes

  3. Pour and cure:

    • Pour into molds while still liquid (150-160°F)

    • Cover and let cool 12-24 hours

    • Cut into blocks

    • Cure 2-4 weeks for best translucency

Why It's Translucent:

  • Glycerin = solvent that clarifies

  • Sugar = additional solvent

  • Alcohol = dissolves soap crystals

  • High castor oil = naturally more translucent

  • Stearic acid = hardness without opacity

HOWEVER... The Reality:

DIY M&P is honestly quite difficult.

Recommendation: For stained glass, buy organic/natural M&P base. Save your energy for the actual art!

Black Outline Curing Time - CRITICAL INFO

This depends on which method you're using:

FOR MELT & POUR (What she's likely using):

Curing time before etching/adding colors:

StepTimeWhat's HappeningPour black outline0 minPipe/pour black M&P linesInitial set15-30 minBlack firms up enough to touchReady to fill30-60 minBlack is solid, won't move when you pour colorsFully hardened2-4 hoursReady to unmold/cut

Answer: 30-60 minutes before adding colored soap

How to test: Gently press the black line with your finger - if it doesn't dent or move, you're ready to fill!

FOR COLD PROCESS (if going that route):

Much longer:

StepTimeWhyPour black outlineDay 0Thick trace CP soapInitial setup12-24 hoursNeeds to be firm enough not to blend with new soapReady to fill24-48 hoursBlack is solid but soap is still "raw" so new soap will bondFull cure4-6 weeksFor use/translucency

Answer: 24-48 hours before adding colored CP soap

Critical timing: You want the black firm enough to hold shape, but still "raw" enough (uncured) that the new colored soap chemically bonds to it. If you wait too long (more than 3-4 days), the sections might separate.

The Actual Stained Glass Technique Timeline:

Using M&P (Recommended):

Day 1 - Morning:

  1. Pour thin layer of clear M&P in mold (base layer) - wait 30 min

  2. Pipe black outline lines to create cells - wait 30-60 min

  3. Pour colored M&P into each cell - wait 2-4 hours

  4. Unmold and slice - DONE!

Total time: 4-6 hours from start to finished soap

Using Cold Process (Advanced):

Day 1:

  1. Make black outline soap (thick trace)

  2. Pipe into cells

  3. Let sit 24-48 hours

Day 2-3:

  1. Make colored translucent CP batches

  2. Pour carefully into cells at thin trace

  3. Let saponify 24-48 hours

  4. Unmold carefully

Week 6-8:

  1. Soap is finally cured and translucent enough to see effect

Total time: 6-8 weeks from start to usable soap

Pro Tips for Timing:

M&P Stained Glass:

  • Don't rush the 30-60 min wait - if black is too soft, colors will blend

  • Don't wait too long - if black is completely cold, new layers won't stick well

  • Sweet spot: Black feels firm but mold is still slightly warm

CP Stained Glass:

  • Test firmness: Black should feel like firm cheese (not liquid, not rock hard)

  • Spray with alcohol between pours to help adhesion

  • Work fast once you start pouring colors - you want them all poured within 30 minutes

What Does "Etching Out" Mean?

I think you might be asking about two different techniques:

Technique 1: Flat Pour (No etching)

  1. Pour black lines on flat base

  2. Wait 30-60 min

  3. Pour colors between lines

  4. Slice - each slice shows pattern

Technique 2: Sculpted Cells (Actual etching)

  1. Pour thick black layer (1/2")

  2. Wait until firm (1-2 hours for M&P, 24 hours for CP)

  3. Carve/etch out cells with tools (like carving pumpkins!)

  4. Fill carved areas with colored soap

  5. Slice - shows 3D stained glass effect

Is this what you meant? For the carved method:

  • M&P: Wait 2-4 hours before carving

  • CP: Wait 24-48 hours before carving

My Recommendation:

Start with M&P method:

  1. Buy 2 lbs clear organic M&P base

  2. Buy 1 lb white M&P base

  3. Make black from white + charcoal

  4. Practice the 30-60 minute timing

  5. Perfect your technique

  6. THEN try DIY M&P or CP if you want

Top Online Suppliers (US-based)

1. Stephenson Personal Care (Industry Standard)

  • Website: stephensonpersonalcare.com

  • Best for: Certified organic bases

  • Popular products:

    • Crystal OPC (Organic Clear) - USDA certified organic

    • Crystal OREF (Organic Clear Extra Firm)

    • Crystal OST (Organic Suspending - for embeds)

  • Ingredients: Organic coconut oil, organic palm oil, organic glycerin, organic shea butter

  • Where to buy: Directly or through retailers below

2. Wholesale Supplies Plus (WSP)

  • Website: wholesalesuppliesplus.com

  • Carries: Stephenson organic bases, SFIC natural bases

  • Pros:

    • Fast shipping

    • Small quantity options (1-2 lb blocks)

    • Frequent sales

  • Price range: $6-9/lb

3. Bramble Berry

  • Website: brambleberry.com

  • Carries:

    • Stephenson Organic Melt & Pour

    • SFIC (Soap & Fragrance Institute of California) natural bases

  • Pros:

    • Excellent for beginners

    • Great tutorials

    • Samples available

    • Reliable quality

  • Price range: $7-10/lb

4. Nature's Garden

  • Website: naturesgardencandles.com

  • Carries: SFIC natural bases, some organic options

  • Pros:

    • Competitive pricing

    • Bulk discounts

    • Good variety

  • Price range: $5-8/lb

5. From Nature With Love (FNWL)

  • Website: fromnaturewithlove.com

  • Carries: Stephenson organic bases

  • Pros:

    • Bulk organic options

    • Other natural ingredients too

    • Good for one-stop shopping

  • Price range: $6-9/lb

6. Amazon (Convenience)

  • Search for: "Stephenson Organic Melt and Pour"

  • Brands to look for:

    • Stephenson

    • Life of the Party (SFIC)

    • Crafters Choice

  • Pros:

    • Prime shipping

    • Small quantities

    • Read reviews

  • Cons:

    • Slightly higher prices ($8-12/lb)

    • Quality varies by seller

  • Price range: $8-12/lb

What to Look For:

True "Organic" Bases (Certified):

Stephenson Crystal OPC - This is THE gold standard

  • ✓ USDA Organic certified

  • ✓ Cosmos Natural certified

  • ✓ Palm oil from sustainable sources

  • ✓ No SLS/SLES

  • ✓ Vegan option available

"Natural" Bases (Not certified but clean):

SFIC bases - Very good quality, natural ingredients

  • ✓ No detergents (SLS-free)

  • ✓ Glycerin, coconut, palm oils

  • ✓ Not certified organic but clean formula

  • ✓ More affordable than certified organic

Product Recommendations by Type:

For Stained Glass Soap:

  • Clear/White (organic) from Stephenson Crystal OPC, online @ Wholesale Supplies Plus & , Bramble Berry

  • What to order for stained glass:

    • 2 lbs Stephenson Crystal OPC (clear organic) - $16-18

    • 1 lb Stephenson Crystal OSW (white organic) - $8-9

    • Activated charcoal (for black) - $3-5

Ingredient Comparison:

Stephenson Organic (OPC):

  • Organic Coconut Oil
  • Organic Palm Oil (sustainable RSPO)
  • Organic Glycerin
  • Organic Shea Butter
  • Purified Water
  • Sorbitol (from organic sources)
  • Sodium Hydroxide

Hybrid Method: CP/HP Base + M&P Colors

The Setup:

  1. Make carved base: Your tallow CP soap (or any CP/HP soap) - black or white

  2. Carve the design: Wait until firm, carve out cells

  3. Fill with colored clear M&P: Buy just clear organic M&P, add colors, pour into carved cells

Why This is GENIUS:

✓ Use soap you already know how to make (your tallow recipe!)
✓ Only buy clear M&P (cheaper - just 1-2 lbs needed)
✓ Best of both worlds: Natural CP base + translucent M&P colors
✓ Easier carving: CP soap carves beautifully when timing is right
✓ More forgiving: If carving goes wrong, rebatch the base
✓ Your formula: Keep using your beloved tallow soap

The Process - Step by Step:

Step 1: Make Your Carving Base (CP or HP)

Best soap for carving:

Option A: Your Regular Tallow CP Recipe

  • Make it BLACK with activated charcoal (1-2 tsp PPO)

  • Or leave WHITE/CREAM (natural color)

  • Pour into slab mold 1-1.5" thick

  • Make it WIDE and LONG (think sheet cake pan)

Easier-to-Carve CP Recipe

If you want soap that's specifically easy to carve:

Firm Carving Recipe:

  • 40% Tallow (firmness)

  • 30% Coconut oil (hardness)

  • 20% Olive oil (workability)

  • 10% Castor oil (smooth carving)

  • 5% superfat

  • 33% lye concentration (firmer soap)

Pour into the slab about 1-1.5" deep

Makes soap that:

  • ✓ Holds crisp edges when carved

  • ✓ Doesn't crumble

  • ✓ Not too hard, not too soft

  • ✓ Perfect "carving window", within 12 to 36 hours (18 to 30 specifically good)

Prepare Carved Soap for Filling

After carving (same day):

  1. Let carved soap sit another 12-24 hours

    • Firms up more

    • Surface oxidizes slightly (helps M&P stick)

    • Cells dry out

  2. Optional: Spray with alcohol

    • Helps M&P adhere to CP

    • Cleans any soap debris from carving

  3. Keep at room temp

    • Don't refrigerate

    • M&P bonds better to room-temp soap

Fill with Colored M&P

What to buy:

  • 2 lbs clear organic M&P (Stephenson OPC)

  • Soap colorants (micas or oxides)

  • That's it!

Process:

  1. Melt M&P in microwave:

    • 30-second bursts

    • Stir between

    • Don't overheat (160-170°F max)

  2. Divide and color:

    • Pour melted M&P into separate containers

    • Add colors (mica, oxide, natural colors)

    • Blue, red, yellow, green, purple - whatever you want!

  3. Pour into carved cells:

    • Pour slowly to avoid air bubbles

    • Fill slightly overfull

    • Spray with alcohol if bubbles appear

    • Let each color set 10-15 min before adding next (if cells touch)

  4. Let harden completely:

    • 2-4 hours at room temp

    • Don't rush this!

  5. Smooth the top (optional):

    • Once M&P is hard, you can:

    • Leave as-is (textured look)

    • OR plane/shave the top flat with knife

    • OR pour thin layer of clear M&P over everything

Step 6: Cut and Cure

Cutting:

  • Wait 24 hours after filling

  • Cut with sharp knife or soap cutter

  • Each slice reveals the stained glass pattern!

  • Wipe blade between cuts for clean edges

Curing:

  • Even though M&P is "done," the CP base still needs curing

  • Cure 4-6 weeks total from when you made the base

  • The M&P sections are ready immediately, but CP needs time

Example Timeline:

Day 0 (Monday):

  • Make black/white CP tallow soap base

  • Pour into slab mold 1" thick

Day 1 (Tuesday afternoon, ~24 hours later):

  • Test firmness - should feel like firm cheese

  • Carve design into soap

  • Let sit to firm up more

Day 2 (Wednesday):

  • Melt clear M&P

  • Add colors

  • Pour into carved cells

  • Let harden 2-4 hours

Day 2 Evening:

  • Cut into bars

  • Reveals stained glass pattern!

Week 4-6:

  • CP base fully cured

  • Soap ready to use

Thinning Hair / Scalp Support

Universal Conditioner

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