Thinning Hair / Scalp Support

Below is a clean, disciplined, best-possible hair growth support shampoo bar recipe that is fully aligned with everything we’ve learned so far — inflammation-first, hard-water aware, non-estrogenic, scalable, and honest about what topical products can and cannot do.

This is a calming + circulation-supporting + barrier-respecting shampoo designed to remove the obstacles to regrowth rather than “force” hair to grow.

🌿 SHAMPOO BAR — Growth Support

Pressed Syndet Bar
Adults only (two EO strength options below)
Batch size: 500 g (~6 × 80–85 g bars)
Target pH: 5.0–5.5

DESIGN PHILOSOPHY (WHY THIS WORKS)

Hair thinning improves when:

• scalp inflammation decreases

• follicles are not repeatedly stripped and recoated

• hard-water minerals are chelated

• circulation is gently supported

• hormonal noise is minimized

This bar:

• cleans without soap scum

• avoids alkaline swelling of the cuticle

• avoids estrogenic oils

• avoids menthol shock

• avoids heavy conditioning buildup

It is supportive, not aggressive.

🧪 FORMULA — 500 g

PHASE A — Surfactants (gentle, hard-water friendly)

• SCI (powder preferred) — 250 g (50%)

• Cocoamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) — 75 g (15%)

SCI provides mild cleansing; CAPB adds plasticity and reduces irritation.

PHASE B — Structure & slip (lightweight)

• BTMS-50 — 30 g (6%)

• Cetyl alcohol — 25 g (5%)

Enough slip to reduce breakage, not enough to coat follicles.

PHASE C — Humectants & follicle support

• Glycerin — 30 g (6%)

• Liquid panthenol (50–75%) — 10 g (2%)

• Hydrolyzed protein (silk or oat) — 5 g (1%)

• Sodium citrate — 5 g (1%)

Panthenol strengthens the shaft; citrate protects against mineral buildup.

PHASE D — Anti-inflammatory support

• Rosemary oleoresin — 0.5 g (0.1%)
  (pre-dissolved in glycerin)

Antioxidant support without fragrance or irritation.

PHASE E — Color (visual identifier, optional)

• French green clay — 2.5 g (0.5%)
  (dispersed in warm glycerin)

PHASE F — ESSENTIAL OILS (choose ONE option)

🔹 OPTION A — FAMILY-SAFE (1.0%)

• Rosemary ct. cineole — 5 g (1.0%)

🔹 OPTION B — ADULT HAIR-LOSS SUPPORT (1.5–2.0% max)

• Rosemary ct. cineole — 8 g (1.6%)

• Cedarwood atlas — 2 g (0.4%)

• Cypress — 1 g (0.2%)

Avoid peppermint. Avoid rosemary ct. camphor. Avoid verbenone in pregnancy.

TOTAL: 500 g

✔ Non-estrogenic
✔ Hard-water compatible
✔ Low-irritation
✔ Presses cleanly
✔ Scales easily

🔥 PROCESS — PRESSED SHAMPOO BAR

0️⃣ Mise en place (do not skip)

• Weigh everything before heat

• Mask + ventilation when handling SCI

• Prep molds, press, wrap

1️⃣ Soften surfactant base

Combine:

• SCI

• CAPB

• BTMS-50

• Cetyl alcohol

Heat gently to 120–130°F (49–54°C)
MAX 140°F

Texture goal:

• thick dough

• mashed-potato consistency

• SCI noodles softened, not dissolved

Time + hydration does the work, not heat.

2️⃣ Prepare actives separately

Warm glycerin to 140–150°F, then:

• dissolve panthenol

• dissolve protein

• dissolve sodium citrate

• dissolve rosemary oleoresin

• disperse clay in its own small portion

3️⃣ Combine

Add actives one at a time to surfactant dough.
Knead thoroughly.

Target dough temp: 115–125°F

4️⃣ Cool → scent

Let dough drop to ≤120°F.
Add essential oils.
Knead just until incorporated.

5️⃣ Press

• Dough temp: 100–115°F

• Load 80–85 g

• Press 5–10 seconds

• Optional rotate 180° and repress briefly

• Rest in mold 5 minutes

• Unmold

6️⃣ Cure

• Handle immediately

• Best use after 3–7 days

• Full optimization by 2 weeks

🧪 pH TESTING (IMPORTANT)

Test 48–72 hours after pressing.

Method

• Shave ~0.5–1 g

• Mix with 10 g distilled water

• Let sit 10–15 min

• Test liquid only

Targets

• Ideal: 5.0–5.5

• Acceptable: up to 5.8

🔧 pH ADJUSTMENT (IF NEEDED)

Citric acid solution (10%)

• 1 g citric acid + 9 g water

For 100 g shampoo:

• Add 0.1–0.3 g citric acid solution

• Knead

• Retest

Go slow. Over-acidifying reduces lather.

🧠 HOW TO USE (REALISTIC EXPECTATIONS)

• Wash 2–4× per week

• Massage gently; do not scratch

• Leave lather on scalp 30–60 seconds

• Rinse thoroughly

• Conditioner only on lengths

• Optional ACV rinse 1–2× weekly (not daily)

Timeline

• Reduced shedding: 2–6 weeks

• Improved scalp comfort: 1–3 weeks

• Regrowth signals: 3–6 months

The Story

When people shift to natural based hair care, the first thing you hear often is how their hair stopped thinning out.

It turns out much of the problem lies in the INFLAMMATION caused by the shampoos that line most shelves. Whether someone goes to a tallow/lye based soap or one with lesser problematic chemicals in syndet bars, they find relief, and that is because the inflammation is calmed.

• Quick definition: syndet bar (short for synthetic detergent) is a solid, soap-free cleansing bar made with synthetic surfactants instead of traditional soap, offering a gentler, pH-balanced wash. While it may seem counter intuitive, it turns out to be great for sensitive skin, often used as shampoo or body bars.

• Now, I did a lot of research if long term it is better to use a soap based (lye/tallow etc) shampoo or a syndet bar (made of detergent), and I am still making a syndet bar, surprising even myself. The soap based (more natural bar) requires a simple apple cider vinegar rinse after, which I have prepared and ready to use daily. But the real problem is the water quality in my area. I live in an area that has “hard” water, or something that binds and builds up with the natural oils and ends up being harmful to hair. So even with all my efforts, and a little filter in my shower (which I am glad i found and am keeping!), plus vitamin c tablets in my children’s baths, the research was not for nothing. Something people like about the soap bars is that it helps remove the build up when you do a little soap detox for 3 months. And you can even go back to syndet bars after. The real benefit is cleaning up the build up of synthetics, and getting your natural oils back to normal patterns. Traditional soap strips all oil, add some bubbles to feel good, and then adds things to coat your hair that was removed. Now, for millions of years, we and other animals did not need to make lye based or detergent based soaps to have shiny hair. What happened? We became dependent. Our hair secretes more oil because it doesn’t know what the eff is going on. Doing a hair detox helps bring that knowledge back. I just will wait until I am ready. I thought I was, but the homemade syndet bars can still be made with MUCH better ingredients than traditional ones, and do the BEST thing for me, in the most simple routine possible.

So back to why we are doing this at all: inflammation. Inflammation of the scalp.

It is the same thing as turning to real food, the inflammation in your body relaxes. The worst kind of fat melts off with real food, without having to workout. You should still work out, your body and heart and organs still need it as much as your brain does, but not to lose weight. To build muscle, fine. But stop associating fat with movement- IT IS ABOUT THE FOOD. You can artificially play with the numbers on the scale temporarily with muscle, but working out on bad fuel is a recipe for disaster. Like filling a regular car with diesel, it just wears you out. You will get joint pain, etc, and work hard to go nowhere. That is why most of us spend money on bad food, gym memberships, yoga outfits, shoes, but don’t see results. IT IS THE FOOD.

But this article is about what we put ON our skin, which can be just as important as what we put IN our bodies. Our skin is extremely pourous, and aborbs it all. Food first, as with the movement discussion above. Then the skin care, so start with food and drink lots of water always, but then look at these other things.

Benefits of Rosemary on Hair

Rosemary essential oil is NOT estrogenic and is generally safe for kids when properly diluted.

✓ Excellent for hair growth - clinically studied!

✓ Non-estrogenic - No hormonal activity
✓ Safe for children 2+ (when diluted to 1% or less)
✓ Safe for pregnancy (after first trimester, diluted)

• Why Rosemary Warning for First Trimester? Rosemary is a uterine stimulant (emmenagogue) - in high doses, it can stimulate menstruation. Contains camphor - in very high amounts, could theoretically cause contractions. Traditional use: Historically used to bring on delayed periods
  

Rosemary for Hair Loss - The Science:

Clinical studies show:

• As effective as 2% minoxidil (Rogaine) for hair regrowth

• Stimulates scalp circulation

• Reduces DHT (hormone that causes hair loss)

• Strengthens hair follicles

• Reduces dandruff and scalp inflammation

Recommended usage for hair loss:

• 2-3% in shampoo bars for adults

• Use consistently for 3-6 months to see results

1. Chemotype matters:

• Rosemary ct. cineole - SAFEST, best for kids

• Rosemary ct. camphor - More stimulating, avoid for kids under 6

• Rosemary ct. verbenone - Hormone-balancing, avoid in pregnancy

2. Avoid if epilepsy or seizure history:

• Rosemary can be stimulating to nervous system

• High doses may lower seizure threshold (rare, but noted)

• Use caution if family history of seizures

Adult Hair Loss Formula (No Kids)

Rosemary at 2-3%:

• Maximum hair growth benefits

• Label "For Adults Only"

• Can add other stimulating oils

Recipe example (per 510g batch):

• Rosemary EO: 10-15g (2-3%)

• Optional addition: Cedarwood: 3-5g (circulation)

Family-Friendly Hair Health (Kids 2+)

Rosemary at 1%:

• Still beneficial for hair health

• Safe for whole family

• Gentler formula

Recipe example (per 510g batch):

• Rosemary EO: 5g (1%)

• Orange EO: 3g (pleasant scent)

• Cedarwood: 2g (gentle scalp support).

For thinning hair, the conditioner should stay neutral. Since it is the shampoo that is doing the work

• Calming inflammation

• Improving scalp circulation (rosemary, cedarwood)

• Reducing DHT signaling

• Supporting follicles directly

• Actively interacting with scalp biology

The conditioner should do the opposite kind of job

• Zero scalp stimulation

• Zero endocrine signaling

• Zero fragrance load

• Zero buildup

• Pure slip + cuticle smoothing

Updated Recipe - Pressed Hair Growth Support

Original Rosemary Hair Loss Shampoo Bar Recipe:

Adult Hair Growth Formula (510g batch)

Using your SUN Shampoo Bar base with modifications:

Surfactants:

• SCI: 235g

• CAPB: 80g

Structure:

• BTMS-50: 30g

• Cetearyl alcohol: 50g

• Cetyl alcohol: 15g

Liquids:

• Aloe vera: 12g

• Water: 22g

• Glycerin: 20g

Hair Growth Actives:

• DL-Panthenol powder: 7.5g (strengthening)

• Silk amino acids: 5g (protein)

• Sodium citrate: 5g

• PQ-10: 1.2g

• Caffeine powder: 5g (optional - boosts hair growth!)

• Biotin: 2g (optional - hair health)

Essential Oils (Hair Loss Blend):

• Rosemary: 12g (2.4%) ⭐

• Cedarwood Atlas: 5g (1%) (DHT blocker)

• Optional: Peppermint 2g (0.4%) (stimulating)

Preservation:

• Neodefend: 5g

Total: ~510g

Why This Combo Works for Hair Loss:

• Rosemary Increases circulation, reduces DHT, stimulates growth

• Cedarwood Balances oil, natural DHT blocker

• Panthenol Strengthens hair shaft, prevents breakage

• Caffeine Stimulates follicles, blocks DHT

• Biotin Supports keratin production

• Silk amino acids Repairs damage, adds strength

Essential Oils Safe for Hair Loss (Adults):

✓ Rosemary - Best researched for hair growth
✓ Cedarwood Atlas - Balances scalp, DHT blocker
✓ Peppermint - Stimulating (use sparingly, can tingle)
✓ Lavender - Supports healthy scalp
✓ Thyme ct. linalool - Growth promoting (if you have it)

🧼 SHAMPOO BAR — Thinning Hair / Scalp Support

Pressed Syndet | 2” rounds (~80 g each) | Batch: 800 g (10 bars)
pH target: 5.0–5.5

Design intent

• Gentle, hard-water friendly

• Scalp-stimulating (rosemary)

• Light conditioning without weight

• Clearly identifiable vs conditioner

FORMULA (800 g)

Phase A — Surfactants (structure & cleanse)

• SCI (powder or fine noodles) — 400 g (50%)

• Cocoamidopropyl betaine (CAPB) — 120 g (15%)

Phase B — Structure & slip

• BTMS-50 — 48 g (6%)

• Cetyl alcohol — 40 g (5%)

Phase C — Humectants & actives

👉 Note: Adding all actives together early can cause premature stiffening. Add to pot one at a time!

• Glycerin — 40 g (5%)

• Panthenol (DL-Panthenol) — 16 g (2%)

• Hydrolyzed protein (silk or oat) — 8 g (1%)

• Sodium citrate — 8 g (1%)

Phase D — Scalp support

• Rosemary oleoresin — 0.8 g (0.1%)
  (dissolve in glycerin)

Phase E — Color (optional, shampoo identifier)

• French green clay — 4 g (0.5%)
  (dispersed in warm glycerin)

Phase F — Essential oils (≤1.0%)

• Rosemary EO — 4 g

• Cedarwood EO — 2 g

• Cypress EO — 1.2 g

• Bergamot FCF — 0.4 g

• Vanilla CO₂ (optional) — 0.4 g

Total EO: 8 g (1.0%)

PROCESS — SHAMPOO BAR (Pressed)

0️⃣ Mise en place (aka, French for "Everything in its place”. DO NOT SKIP)

Time: 10–15 minutes

• Weigh everything before heat is on

• Keep powders covered

• Wear a mask when working with SCI. I like to weigh it last, since it really does bring up a LOT of powder in the air and it is pretty toxic for your lungs to breath loose like that. Always open a window and put the hood vent on over the stove. If possible, bring the crock pot outside and do this in open air, STILL WITH A MASK. N95 or better. Yea, the covid ones are fine.

• Have molds, wrap, press ready

This step saves you from rushing later.

1️⃣ Softening the base ingredients (under controlled heat)

• Combine SCI + CAPB + BTMS + cetyl alcohol in double boiler.

• Heat gently to 120–130°F (49–54°C)

  • MAX 140°F (60°C)
    (Above this risks surfactant damage + scent loss)

• Notes: SCI does not melt like wax

  • It hydrates and softens

  • Texture = thick dough / damp sand → clay-like paste

  • This takes longer than I thought: 15–25 minutes to get the Sci noodles to absorb. They will not fully dissipate. They will just wear down along the edges. Mash with the edge of a spoon until you get a mashed potato consistency. Wearing gloves, you can test by picking up a part of the white noodle, and press. If it mashes like potato, it is good. If it is still crumbly, it needs more time to be fully hydrated. This comes with time, not heat. And it will never be as smooth as liquid soap. Powder will absorb easier, but it is more harmful to breathe in while working with it. Trade offs.

Texture should be thick dough — not liquid. Do not wait for “liquid.” That will never happen.

2️⃣ Prepare actives & color (separately)

While the SCI noodles are mushing down, in a separate double boiler set up, work with the actives.

• Warm 40g glycerin to 140–150°F, then separate into 3-4 separate containers (at least 2).

  • If you have powdered panthenol (next time I will buy in liquid form), then add to a separate 10 g of warmed glycerine. Stir until fully smooth.

  • Dissolve the rest, one by one or separate:

    • protein

    • sodium citrate

    • rosemary oleoresin

  • If using a color, add it to its own batch of 10g heated glycerine. Skip if not using. Add to final batch last. I like to add 1-2 tsp of calendula powder for yellow, etc.

3️⃣ Combine

Once the surfactants (SCI dough) is ready, add the actives in, one by one, letting the dough warm up in between additions. Add the colored powder in last (if using), and push throughout until color is even.

Try to do all this within 5 minutes of the first addition.

DTemperature target: Dough should be 115–125°F

4️⃣ Cool slightly to ≤120°F → add scent if using

• Add essential oils

• Knead just until incorporated (don’t over do it).

5️⃣ Press

• Dough temp: 100–115°F

• Load ~80 g per cavity

• Press firmly 5–10 seconds

• Optional light second press after 180° rotation

• Rest 5–10 minutes

• Unmold and set aside

Cure

• Handleable immediately, can clean up some edges after a day.

• Let cure at least 3 days, but optimally let sit a full week from making.

• Optimal performance after 3–7 days

pH TESTING (can’t do this immediately, will be high)

• Test 48–72 hours after pressing (2-3 days)

  • If using a more watered pourable base, wait 2-3 days to unmold, then tests after the bars have rested out of its mold overnight

How to test

1. Shave off pea-sized amount (~0.5–1 g)

2. Mix with 10 g distilled water

3. Let sit 10–15 minutes

4. Dip pH strip into liquid only

5. Read within 15 seconds

What you want to see:

• Shampoo bar

  • Ideal: pH 5.0–5.5

  • Acceptable: up to ~5.8

• Conditioner bar

  • Ideal: pH 4.5–5.0

IF pH IS TOO HIGH — HOW TO FIX IT SAFELY

• First: don’t panic. Syndets are forgiving.

• Make a citric acid solution of:

  • 10% solution

  • 1 g citric acid + 9 g distilled water

How to adjust

• Remelt bar gently (≤130°F)

• Add 2–3 drops at a time

• Knead thoroughly

• Retest after 10 minutes

Typical correction

• For a 100 g bar:

  • Often 0.1–0.3 g citric acid total is enough

• Go slow — over-acidifying ruins lather

If pH is too LOW

• Rare

• Usually leave it alone

• Test hair feel before adjusting

QUICK TIMELINE SUMMARY

• Weighing 10–15 min

• Surfactant softening 15–25 min

• Actives prep (parallel) 5–10 min

• Combine 3–5 min

• Scent 2–3 min

• Pressing 5 min/bar

• Unmold 5–10 min

• Cure before use 3–7 days

• pH test Day 2–3