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Family Gentle Syndet Shampoo Bar

Batch Size: 1000g (makes 20 bars at 50g each)
Bar Size: 2" × 2" rounds
Ages: 2+ years, all hair types
Duration: 40-60 showers per 50g bar; two-bar case lasts 2-3 months per person
Target pH: 5.1-5.4

Ingredients by Weight (1000g batch)

  • SCI — 47% = 470 g

  • CAPB — 16% = 160 g

  • Cetearyl alcohol — 10% = 100 g

  • BTMS-50 — 6% = 60 g

  • Glycerin — 4% = 40 g

  • Cetyl alcohol — 3% = 30 g

  • Panthenol (B5) — 2% = 20 g

  • Sodium citrate — 1% = 10 g

  • Neodefend — 0.9% = 9 g

  • Distilled water (processing) — 12.1% = 121 g

Optional curl/long-hair version only: 

  • PQ-10 0.2–0.3% (2–3 g) taken out of the water amount.

Target temps

  • Melt/working phase: 160–170°F (71–77°C)

  • Add heat-sensitive ingredients (panthenol, Neodefend): ≤105°F (≤40°C)

Steps

  1. Prep

    • Mask recommended (SCI dust).

    • Set up a double boiler or low heat pot.

  2. Melt structuring phase (160–170°F)

    • Add: cetearyl alcohol + cetyl alcohol + BTMS-50

    • Heat until fully melted and clear.

  3. Add liquids

    • Add CAPB + glycerin + distilled water.

    • Stir smooth; keep around 160°F.

  4. Add SCI gradually

    • Add SCI in 3–5 additions while mixing.

    • Mix until it becomes a uniform dough/paste (no dry SCI pockets).

    • Keep mass 150–170°F (warm dough presses best).

  5. Add sodium citrate

    • Mix thoroughly until evenly distributed.

  6. Cool-down

    • Remove from heat.

    • Let mass drop to ≤105°F.

  7. Add cool-down ingredients

    • Add panthenol, mix well.

    • Add Neodefend, mix very well.

    • Add citric acid solution at cool-down to adjust pH

  8. Mold

    • Press firmly into molds (avoid air gaps).

    • Smooth tops.

  9. Set + dry

    • Set 24–48 hrs, unmold.

    • Air dry 5–7 days before use/sale (longer = harder bar).

Playing with Percentages:

Cleansing System

  • SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate): 470g (47%)

  • CAPB (Cocamidopropyl Betaine): 160g (16%)

Structure & Conditioning

  • Cetearyl Alcohol: 100g (10%)

  • Cetyl Alcohol (optional, for extra luxury): 30g (3%)

  • BTMS-50: 60g (6%)

Support Ingredients

  • Glycerin: 40g (4%)

  • Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): 20g (2%)

  • Sodium Citrate: 10g (1%)

Optional (for curls/long hair)

  • Polyquaternium-10: 2.4g (0.24%)

Water & Preservation

  • Distilled Water: 48g (4.8%)

  • Preservative (Leucidal SF or equivalent): 10g (1%)

pH Adjustment

  • Citric Acid Solution (50%): q.s. to pH 5.1-5.4

Instructions

  1. Heat water phase: Heat distilled water to approximately 160-170°F (71-77°C).

  2. Melt fatty alcohols: In separate container, melt cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (if using), and BTMS-50 together.

  3. Combine SCI and CAPB: Add SCI powder to melted fatty alcohols. Stir thoroughly. Add CAPB and mix well.

  4. Add water phase: Slowly add hot water to the mixture. Stir constantly to create a thick paste.

  5. Add support ingredients: Mix in glycerin, panthenol, sodium citrate, and polyquaternium-10 (if using).

  6. Cool and preserve: Allow mixture to cool to approximately 120°F (49°C). Add preservative.

  7. Adjust pH: Test pH. Add citric acid solution drop by drop until pH reaches 5.1-5.4.

  8. Mold: Press firmly into 2" round molds while still warm and pliable.

  9. Set: Allow to set for 24-48 hours. Unmold and allow to air dry for an additional week for best texture.

Notes

  • Hard water safe: Sodium citrate at 1% helps prevent mineral buildup

  • Low-sting formula: Gentle enough for kids' eyes

  • Curly hair option: Add polyquaternium-10 for extra slip

  • Cetyl alcohol: Optional ingredient adds luxury feel; safe for all ages but not necessary for children

  • Store in silicone travel case; use rotation system (one bar in use, one drying)

Troubleshooting

  • Too crumbly: Add more water next batch (up to 60g total)

  • Too soft: Reduce water or increase cetearyl alcohol

  • Doesn't lather well: Check water hardness; may need to increase sodium citrate to 1.5%

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