Batch Size: 1000g (makes 20 bars at 50g each)
Bar Size: 2" × 2" rounds
Ages: 2+ years, all hair types
Duration: 40-60 showers per 50g bar; two-bar case lasts 2-3 months per person
Target pH: 5.1-5.4
Ingredients by Weight (1000g batch)
SCI — 47% = 470 g
CAPB — 16% = 160 g
Cetearyl alcohol — 10% = 100 g
BTMS-50 — 6% = 60 g
Glycerin — 4% = 40 g
Cetyl alcohol — 3% = 30 g
Panthenol (B5) — 2% = 20 g
Sodium citrate — 1% = 10 g
Neodefend — 0.9% = 9 g
Distilled water (processing) — 12.1% = 121 g
Optional curl/long-hair version only:
PQ-10 0.2–0.3% (2–3 g) taken out of the water amount.
Target temps
Melt/working phase: 160–170°F (71–77°C)
Add heat-sensitive ingredients (panthenol, Neodefend): ≤105°F (≤40°C)
Steps
Prep
Mask recommended (SCI dust).
Set up a double boiler or low heat pot.
Melt structuring phase (160–170°F)
Add: cetearyl alcohol + cetyl alcohol + BTMS-50
Heat until fully melted and clear.
Add liquids
Add CAPB + glycerin + distilled water.
Stir smooth; keep around 160°F.
Add SCI gradually
Add SCI in 3–5 additions while mixing.
Mix until it becomes a uniform dough/paste (no dry SCI pockets).
Keep mass 150–170°F (warm dough presses best).
Add sodium citrate
Mix thoroughly until evenly distributed.
Cool-down
Remove from heat.
Let mass drop to ≤105°F.
Add cool-down ingredients
Add panthenol, mix well.
Add Neodefend, mix very well.
Add citric acid solution at cool-down to adjust pH
Mold
Press firmly into molds (avoid air gaps).
Smooth tops.
Set + dry
Set 24–48 hrs, unmold.
Air dry 5–7 days before use/sale (longer = harder bar).
Playing with Percentages:
Cleansing System
SCI (Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate): 470g (47%)
CAPB (Cocamidopropyl Betaine): 160g (16%)
Structure & Conditioning
Cetearyl Alcohol: 100g (10%)
Cetyl Alcohol (optional, for extra luxury): 30g (3%)
BTMS-50: 60g (6%)
Support Ingredients
Glycerin: 40g (4%)
Panthenol (Pro-Vitamin B5): 20g (2%)
Sodium Citrate: 10g (1%)
Optional (for curls/long hair)
Polyquaternium-10: 2.4g (0.24%)
Water & Preservation
Distilled Water: 48g (4.8%)
Preservative (Leucidal SF or equivalent): 10g (1%)
pH Adjustment
Citric Acid Solution (50%): q.s. to pH 5.1-5.4
Instructions
Heat water phase: Heat distilled water to approximately 160-170°F (71-77°C).
Melt fatty alcohols: In separate container, melt cetearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol (if using), and BTMS-50 together.
Combine SCI and CAPB: Add SCI powder to melted fatty alcohols. Stir thoroughly. Add CAPB and mix well.
Add water phase: Slowly add hot water to the mixture. Stir constantly to create a thick paste.
Add support ingredients: Mix in glycerin, panthenol, sodium citrate, and polyquaternium-10 (if using).
Cool and preserve: Allow mixture to cool to approximately 120°F (49°C). Add preservative.
Adjust pH: Test pH. Add citric acid solution drop by drop until pH reaches 5.1-5.4.
Mold: Press firmly into 2" round molds while still warm and pliable.
Set: Allow to set for 24-48 hours. Unmold and allow to air dry for an additional week for best texture.
Notes
Hard water safe: Sodium citrate at 1% helps prevent mineral buildup
Low-sting formula: Gentle enough for kids' eyes
Curly hair option: Add polyquaternium-10 for extra slip
Cetyl alcohol: Optional ingredient adds luxury feel; safe for all ages but not necessary for children
Store in silicone travel case; use rotation system (one bar in use, one drying)
Troubleshooting
Too crumbly: Add more water next batch (up to 60g total)
Too soft: Reduce water or increase cetearyl alcohol
Doesn't lather well: Check water hardness; may need to increase sodium citrate to 1.5%