Solid Conditioning Bar — 1000 g batch
pH target: 4.5–5.0
Neodefend: 0.7%
Coconut oil: 7%
Low water: 3.5%
BTMS-50: 25% = 250g (detangling for curls, slip for straight)
Cetearyl alcohol: 30% = 300g (structure without heaviness)
Cocoa butter: 8% = 80g (shine, reduced from 15%)
Shea butter: 8% = 80g (moisture without weight)
Argan oil: 5% = 50g (lightweight shine - better than jojoba for your straight hair)
Coconut oil: 3% = 30g (reduced - just enough slip)
Glycerin: 10% = 100g (humectant - crucial for curls!)
Panthenol (B5): 3% = 30g (strengthening)
Silk amino acids: 0.8% = 8g (shine for straight, definition for curls)
Honeyquat: 2% = 20g (optional but amazing - humectant + conditioning),
could use aloe vera powder 1% if you want extra slip
Neodefend: 0.7% = 7g
Distilled water: 8.5% = 85g (increased slightly for easier processing)
Target temps
Melt phase: 160–170°F (71–77°C)
Add panthenol/silk: 120–130°F (49–54°C)
Add Neodefend: ≤105°F (≤40°C)
Steps
Melt conditioning phase (160–170°F)
Melt: BTMS-50 + cetearyl alcohol + cocoa butter + shea + coconut oil + jojoba
Heat until fully uniform.
Heat water (same range)
Warm your distilled water to 160°F.
Combine
Slowly add warm water into the melted phase while mixing continuously.
Mix until creamy and uniform.
Cool to 120–130°F
Add panthenol + silk amino acids.
Mix thoroughly.
Cool to ≤105°F
Add Neodefend.
Mix very well.
Mold
Press into molds while warm/pliable.
Tap to settle.
Set + dry
Set 24–48 hrs, unmold.
Air dry 5–7 days before use.
Solid Conditioning Bar (1000 g)
Target temps
Melt phase: 160–170°F (71–77°C)
Add panthenol/silk: 120–130°F (49–54°C)
Add Neodefend: ≤105°F (≤40°C)
Steps
Melt conditioning phase (160–170°F)
Melt: BTMS-50 + cetearyl alcohol + cocoa butter + shea + coconut oil + jojoba
Heat until fully uniform.
Heat water (same range)
Warm your distilled water to 160°F.
Combine
Slowly add warm water into the melted phase while mixing continuously.
Mix until creamy and uniform.
Cool to 120–130°F
Add panthenol + silk amino acids.
Mix thoroughly.
Cool to ≤105°F
Add Neodefend.
Mix very well.
Mold
Press into molds while warm/pliable.
Tap to settle.
Set + dry
Set 24–48 hrs, unmold.
Air dry 5–7 days before use.