The Art of Crafting Divine Tallow Soap: A Guide to Small-Batch Luxury

There's something magical about making your own soap. It's part science, part artistry, and entirely rewarding. Whether you're creating thoughtful gifts for loved ones, learning to homestead and care for yourself with wholesome ingredients, or building a small business at your local farmers market, this grass-fed tallow soap recipe is your gateway to all three.

Let me take you on a journey through this beautiful recipe—why each ingredient matters, how they work together in perfect harmony, and why you'll fall in love with the process of creating something truly divine with your own hands.

Why Tallow Soap? The Renaissance of an Ancient Tradition

For centuries, our ancestors made soap from what they had: animal fats and wood ash. Tallow soap wasn't just practical—it was luxurious, gentle, and incredibly nourishing for the skin. Then the industrial age arrived, and suddenly everything was about cheap vegetable oils and synthetic detergents.

But here's what our great-grandmothers knew: tallow makes exceptional soap.

Today, we're rediscovering this wisdom. Grass-fed tallow is experiencing a renaissance, and for good reason. It's sustainable, nutrient-dense, and creates bars of soap that rival anything you'd find in a high-end boutique.

When you make tallow soap, you're not just making soap—you're connecting with tradition, embracing sustainable living, and creating something your skin will absolutely love.

Meet Your Ingredients: The Dream Team

Every ingredient in this recipe has been carefully chosen for a specific purpose. This isn't a random collection of oils—it's a precisely balanced formula where each component plays a vital role. Let's meet the players:

1. Grass-Fed Tallow (45%) - Your Foundation

Why it's the star of the show:

Tallow is the rendered fat from beef, and when it comes from grass-fed, pasture-raised cattle, it's packed with vitamins A, D, E, and K. But what makes it extraordinary for soap?

Structurally similar to human skin oils: Tallow's fatty acid profile closely resembles our own sebum, which means it's incredibly compatible with our skin
Creates hard, long-lasting bars: High in stearic and palmitic acids, which form the backbone of a durable soap
Produces stable, creamy lather: Not big fluffy bubbles, but rich, conditioning foam that feels luxurious
Gentle cleansing: Removes dirt without stripping your skin's natural protective barrier
Cost-effective: Especially if you source from local farms or butchers

Why 45%? This percentage gives you maximum tallow benefits while leaving room for other oils to add their special qualities. It's the perfect balance—enough to be the foundation, but not so much that you miss out on the magic of complementary oils.

2. Cacao Butter (10%) - Your Luxury Enhancer

The indulgent touch:

Cacao butter is what gives chocolate its melt-in-your-mouth quality, and it brings that same richness to soap.

Extra hardness: Creates bars that last and last
Creamy, conditioning lather: Adds a silky quality to the bubbles
Protective feel: Leaves skin feeling soft without being greasy
Natural chocolate scent: Subtle, warm, and comforting—pairs beautifully with vanilla
Stable and long-lasting: Resistant to rancidity

Why 10%? At this percentage, cacao butter enhances without overpowering. Go too high (15-20%+) and your soap can feel waxy and inhibit lather. At 10%, it's pure luxury with no downsides.

The synergy with tallow: While tallow provides structure and mildness, cacao butter adds that "spa-like" quality. Together, they create a bar that's both practical and indulgent—the best of both worlds.

3. Apricot Kernel Oil (20%) - Your Silk Touch

The gentle conditioner:

Apricot kernel oil is one of those "quiet luxury" ingredients—understated but incredibly effective.

Light and easily absorbed: Similar to olive oil but slightly lighter
Rich in vitamins A and E: Nourishing for all skin types
Creates gentle, silky lather: Soft bubbles that feel luxurious
Perfect for sensitive skin: Mild and non-irritating
Adds conditioning without heaviness: Moisturizes without leaving a film

Why 20%? This is your "soft oils" percentage—oils that condition and moisturize. Apricot kernel oil at 20% provides substantial conditioning without making bars soft or slow to cure. It's the Goldilocks amount—just right.

Don’t have apricot oil? Swaps directly for olive oil 1-for-1 perfectly!

They're extremely similar in soapmaking properties, so it's a seamless substitution.

The homesteader's choice: If you're already infusing oils for balms and salves (like vanilla in jojoba), apricot kernel oil is a beautiful addition to your homestead pantry. It crosses over between skincare and soapmaking effortlessly.

4. Coconut Oil (20%) - Your Lather Builder

The bubble maker:

Coconut oil is soapmaking's workhorse when it comes to creating lather and hardness.

Big, fluffy bubbles: Creates the satisfying lather people expect from soap
Cleansing power: Effectively removes oils and dirt
Rock-hard bars: Adds significant hardness for longevity
Fast trace: Helps soap batter thicken efficiently

Why 20%? Here's where balance is crucial. Coconut oil is amazing, but too much (over 25-30%) can be drying, especially for sensitive or young skin. At 20%, you get all the lather and hardness benefits without any harshness. It's perfect for a family soap that even young boys with active, dirty hands can use daily.

The sweet spot: Combined with the conditioning oils (apricot, cacao, tallow), this 20% creates a soap that cleanses effectively while still being gentle.

5. Castor Oil (5%) - Your Secret Weapon

The lather booster:

Castor oil is soap's unsung hero. You don't need much, but you definitely want it.

Boosts and stabilizes lather: Makes bubbles bigger, fluffier, and longer-lasting
Adds moisture: Humectant properties draw moisture to skin
Increases transparency: Can add a slight translucency that looks beautiful
Improves texture: Makes lather feel creamier

Why 5%? A little castor oil goes a long way. At 5%, it supercharges your lather without any drawbacks. Go above 10-15% and bars can feel sticky or take forever to harden. At 5%, it's pure enhancement with zero compromise.

The magic touch: Think of castor oil as the ingredient that makes all the other oils' lather better. It's not the star—it's the supporting actor that makes the star shine brighter.

The Special Touches: Vanilla Bean Magic

And then there's the vanilla bean seeds—scraped from the pods left over from other infused oil recipes, which otherwise would be filtered out and thrown away (which would be a shame)!

What vanilla beans add:

Visual beauty: Those tiny black specks look artisanal and expensive
Gentle exfoliation: Very mild, barely-there texture
Natural color: Creates gorgeous tan to brown tones (vanilla oxidizes naturally)
Subtle scent: Warm, sweet, comforting aroma
Zero-waste story: Using every part of the vanilla bean is sustainability in action

The chocolate-vanilla pairing: Combined with the natural chocolate scent from cacao butter, you've created an unscented soap that smells like a treat—without any added fragrance oils or essential oils. It's naturally scented luxury.

The Benefits: What Makes This Soap Divine

When all these ingredients come together in perfect harmony, here's what you get:

For Your Skin:

✨ Gentle enough for sensitive skin - No harsh detergents or drying ingredients ✨ Conditioning without being greasy - Cleanses while respecting your skin barrier ✨ Suitable for all skin types - From dry to oily, young to mature ✨ Face and body friendly - One soap for everything ✨ Free from synthetic fragrances - Perfect for those with sensitivities

For Your Shower:

✨ Long-lasting bars - Won't melt away after a few uses ✨ Rich, creamy lather - Feels luxurious and spa-like ✨ Beautiful to look at - Vanilla specks and natural brown color ✨ Subtle, natural scent - Chocolate and vanilla without being overpowering

For Your Values:

✨ Sustainable ingredients - Grass-fed tallow supports regenerative agriculture ✨ Zero-waste mindset - Using vanilla bean leftovers ✨ Simple, recognizable ingredients - Nothing you can't pronounce ✨ Supporting small farms - When you source quality tallow locally ✨ Chemical-free - Just fats, lye (which transforms completely), and vanilla

Why Making Your Own Soap is Pure Joy

1. It's Incredibly Fun to Make

Soapmaking is like being a kitchen chemist and an artist rolled into one. There's something deeply satisfying about:

Watching the transformation: Clear oils become opaque, creamy soap before your eyes
The sensory experience: The warmth of melting oils, the earthy scent of tallow, the sweet chocolate notes from cacao butter
Creative control: You choose every ingredient, decide on colors (natural vanilla brown!), and determine the final shape
The anticipation: Waiting for your soap to cure is like waiting for bread to rise—you can't rush perfection
The reveal: Cutting into a loaf of soap to see those vanilla specks distributed perfectly is genuinely thrilling

It's meditation in action. The precise measuring, the careful stirring, the mindful pouring—it brings you fully into the present moment.

2. Perfect for Gift-Giving

Homemade soap might be the ultimate gift. Here's why:

It's personal: You made it with your own hands. That means something.

It's useful: Unlike decorative items that collect dust, soap gets used and appreciated daily.

It's luxurious: This isn't basic soap—it's grass-fed tallow, cacao butter, and real vanilla beans. It feels expensive because it is high-quality.

It tells a story: "I made this soap from grass-fed tallow, added cacao butter for luxury, and used the vanilla beans left over from my balm-making." That's a gift with depth.

Gift ideas:

Wedding favors: Wrap in kraft paper with twine—rustic elegance
Teacher gifts: Practical, thoughtful, and appreciated
Holiday presents: Make autumn batches to gift in December
New baby gifts: Gentle enough for the whole family
Housewarming presents: Bundle 3-4 bars in a basket with a loofah

Pro tip: If you're making soap for gifts, start 6-8 weeks before you need them. The 4-6 week cure time is non-negotiable, so plan ahead!

3. The Homesteading Lifestyle: Taking Care of Yourself

Making your own soap isn't just a hobby—it's a form of self-reliance and self-care rolled into one.

What homesteading teaches you:

Self-sufficiency: You're no longer dependent on commercial products. You know exactly what's in your soap because you made it.

Resourcefulness: Using tallow (often inexpensive or even free from butchers), repurposing vanilla beans, sourcing local ingredients—you're learning to work with what you have.

Patience: Good things take time. The 4-6 week cure teaches you to slow down and trust the process.

Connection to materials: You understand where things come from. That tallow was once part of a cow raised on pasture. Those vanilla beans traveled from a tropical farm. You're connected to the whole chain.

Skill building: Soapmaking teaches chemistry, precision, creativity, and problem-solving. These skills transfer to other areas of life.

Mental health benefits: There's something deeply grounding about making things with your hands. In our screen-saturated world, physical creation is therapy.

Financial wisdom: Once you've invested in basic supplies, each batch costs just a few dollars to make. You're saving money while creating superior products.

4. Building a Small Business: Sell at Farmers Markets!

And here's where passion meets profit. This recipe isn't just for personal use—it's absolutely market-ready.

The Magic of Making

In a world of mass production and disposable everything, making soap by hand is a radical act. It's slow. It's intentional. It requires patience, precision, and presence.

And that's exactly why it's so rewarding.

When you hold a bar of soap you made yourself—seeing those vanilla specks, smelling that subtle chocolate-vanilla aroma, knowing exactly what went into it—you're holding more than soap.

You're holding self-sufficiency. Creative expression. Connection to tradition. A gift for someone you love. A product you're proud to sell. A skill you'll have forever.

That's the real magic of this recipe.

So gather your ingredients. Set aside an afternoon. Put on your safety gear and your creative spirit.

It's time to make something divine. 🧼✨

Recipe for 2 lb batch (makes 8-10 bars)

The scariest thing about this is needing Lye to turn the oil into a soap. This is a chemical process that was the main star of the movie fight club- a powder that can burn your skin or blind you with such a tiny amount.

Is it worth making soap if it can actually blind your child?

I almost did not do this many times, but finally decided to go for it, with adequate precaution. I need a designated space, and time, to do this when my kids are not around. And I have to make sure these lock breakers cannot find or open the lye. So these are the items I purchased:

Notes: make sure the lye cannot get wet- that starts the chemical process. You can clean it up with vinegar. If you hide it, make sure it is not too high that it will fall and sprinkle into your eyes. Get eye protection, an apron that can be easily wiped off (not cloth), and long gloves with sleeves. I also got a lockable box for chemicals. In case of an earthquake, ensure your chemicals cannot mix and create an explosion - this is actually possible with some common household cleaning and painting supplies!

Some chemicals, such as chlorine bleach and ammonia, may react, ignite or explode.

Only mix lye outdoors, and make sure children and animals will not be touching or walking on it, barfoot or tracking it indoors with shoes. Cover the working space on the floor, and ensure working outside with the lye. You can heat the oils and fats inside, then bring outside to mix fully.

Measure everything with weight, not by volume: cups/Tablespoons, etc bc air bubbles can get trapped.

Okay, that being said, the steps are pretty simple, not all that different from making tallow butter.

This is actually the first tallow product I adored. I was using the soap unknowingly- something my husband bought, and I assumed was boogey and expensive. Turns out, it was just, simple. I had bought him the whipped tallow butter first, and he loved it, bought it many more times. Then he bought me this, so it comes full circle. My herbalism friends already made me interested in it years back, I just was not ready at the time to do it! Now I am all in.

Then the cooking tallow butter straight on my lips sealed the deal, literally. Research told me it HEALED, not just protected (which most plant compounds do). And I could feel that to be true. Not like the petroleum based products that last forever, this does have a shelf life of about a year, but you will use it up by then - bc it is just so lovely. Surprisingly, the beefy cooking tallow on my lips was not a problem with smell, like it was on my hands. I could use the stuff straight up on my lips.

For the farmer’s market, i thought offering my husband’s portable hand washing station with some tallow soap could show the immediate benefit of the softness of the soap. No fragrance, just so soft and gentle. The lotion is luxurious, and the smell makes me coming back for more, but the soap feeeeeels like something i want to keep touching.

I noticed the benefits of the soap faster than the benefits of the lotion, vs what is typically on the market.

So here it goes. A few versions. I had to have some goat’s milk and honey in the wings, but for now, starting with the skin friendly oils I have on hand this season, since everything I use is perishable. No waste. And I love them all so it is worth using every drop! Even the vanilla beans, are from what would otherwise be discarded. The tallow even, made from the beef fat that no butchers can use. But the cosmetics people run out of their way for.

GRASS-FED TALLOW SOAP WITH CACAO BUTTER & REAL VANILLA BEAN

Complete Instructions for Your First Batch

RECIPE SUMMARY

INGREDIENT AMOUNT TO WEIGH

Tallow (grass-fed) 14.4 oz (408 g) Apricot Kernel Oil 6.4 oz (181 g) Coconut Oil 6.4 oz (181 g) Cacao Butter 3.2 oz (91 g) Castor Oil 1.6 oz (45 g) Sodium Hydroxide (Lye) 4.35 oz (123 g) Distilled Water 10.5 oz (298 g) Vanilla Bean Seeds 1-2 tsp

Makes: 8-10 bars | Cure time: 4-6 weeks

SAFETY FIRST - READ BEFORE STARTING

⚠️ Lye is caustic and can cause chemical burns

Safety Requirements:

Wear safety goggles and gloves throughout entire process
Wear long sleeves and closed-toe shoes
Work in well-ventilated area (open window or turn on fan)
Keep vinegar nearby (neutralizes lye on skin if splashed)
No children or pets in workspace
Have phone accessible in case of emergency
Never leave lye solution unattended

If lye contacts skin: Flush with water for 15 minutes, then apply vinegar If lye contacts eyes: Flush with water for 15 minutes and seek medical attention immediately

EQUIPMENT NEEDED

Essential:

Digital kitchen scale (must weigh to 0.1 oz or 1 g precision)
2 heat-safe containers (glass or plastic - NOT aluminum)
- One for lye solution (2-4 cup capacity)
- One large pot/bowl for oils (8+ cup capacity)
Stick blender (immersion blender)
Silicone spatula
2 thermometers (or 1 infrared thermometer)
Silicone loaf mold (holds ~2.5 lbs soap)
Spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol (70% or 91%)

Safety gear:

Safety goggles
Rubber or nitrile gloves
Long sleeves
Apron (optional but recommended)

Nice to have:

Towel or cardboard to cover mold
Wire cooling rack for curing
Knife or soap cutter

PREPARATION (Do Before You Start)

Clear your workspace - Remove anything you don't need
Lay out all ingredients - Pre-measure nothing; you'll weigh as you go
Put on safety gear - Goggles and gloves stay on the entire time
Set up ventilation - Open window or turn on fan
Fill spray bottle with isopropyl alcohol
Prepare vanilla beans - Scrape seeds from pods and set aside (pat semi-dry if wet from jojoba)
Make ice - Freeze about 5 oz (half your water) into ice cubes for lye solution
Read through ALL instructions before beginning

STEP-BY-STEP INSTRUCTIONS

STEP 1: MAKE LYE SOLUTION (Do this first - needs to cool)

Timing: 10 minutes active, 30-45 minutes cooling

Prepare ice water:
- Put 5-6 oz distilled water in heat-safe container
- Add ice cubes made from distilled water until total weight = 10.5 oz
Weigh the lye:
- Place small container on scale, tare to zero
- Carefully measure 4.35 oz (123 g) sodium hydroxide
- Set aside
Combine lye and water (CRITICAL - DO THIS CORRECTLY):
- Take lye and ice water outside or to well-ventilated area
- ALWAYS ADD LYE TO WATER, NEVER WATER TO LYE
- Slowly pour lye into ice water while gently stirring with silicone spatula
- Stir continuously until lye crystals completely dissolve (1-2 minutes)
- WARNING: Solution will get HOT (150-200°F) and produce fumes - don't breathe directly over it!
Let cool:
- Place lye solution in safe spot away from children/pets
- Allow to cool to 90-100°F (will take 30-45 minutes)
- Insert thermometer to monitor

What it should look like: Clear liquid (may be slightly cloudy at first but will clear as it cools)

STEP 2: PREPARE OILS (While lye cools)

Timing: 15-20 minutes

Weigh solid fats into large pot:
- Tallow: 14.4 oz (408 g)
- Cacao Butter: 3.2 oz (91 g)
- Coconut Oil: 6.4 oz (181 g)
Melt solid fats:
- Place pot on stove over LOW heat
- Stir occasionally until just melted
- Do not overheat - remove from heat as soon as melted
- Goal temperature: 90-100°F
Add liquid oils to melted fats:
- Remove pot from heat
- Weigh and add Apricot Kernel Oil: 6.4 oz (181 g)
- Weigh and add Castor Oil: 1.6 oz (45 g)
- Stir to combine
Check temperature:
- Let oils cool to 90-100°F
- Both lye solution and oils should be within 10°F of each other

What it should look like: Clear golden/amber liquid

STEP 3: COMBINE LYE AND OILS (The exciting part!)

Timing: 5-15 minutes

Temperature check:
- Lye solution: 90-100°F
- Oils: 90-100°F
- Within 10°F of each other? Good to go!
Pour lye into oils:
- With gloves and goggles still on
- Slowly pour lye solution into oil mixture
- Pour down side of container (not directly into center to avoid splashing)
Begin mixing with stick blender:
- Burp your stick blender first: Tap on bottom of container a few times to release air bubbles
- Submerge stick blender completely
- Pulse in short bursts (3-5 seconds on, stir, repeat)
- Keep blender head fully submerged to avoid air bubbles
- Alternate between pulsing and stirring with unpowered blender
Mix to "trace":
- Continue pulsing and stirring for 3-8 minutes
- "Trace" means: When you drizzle mixture from spatula, it leaves a trail on surface (like thin pudding)
- Light trace: Mixture barely coats spatula - PERFECT for adding vanilla beans
- Don't over-blend: You want time to add vanilla and pour smoothly

What it should look like: Opaque, creamy, like thin cake batter or pudding

STEP 4: ADD VANILLA BEANS

Timing: 1 minute

At light trace, add vanilla bean seeds:
- Sprinkle 1-2 tsp vanilla bean seeds over soap batter
- Gently stir by hand with spatula (10-15 stirs)
- Seeds will distribute throughout - you'll see black specks

Tip: Don't over-stir or soap will thicken too much

STEP 5: POUR INTO MOLD

Timing: 2-3 minutes

Pour soap batter into silicone loaf mold:
- Pour from low height to minimize bubbles
- Scrape sides of pot with spatula to get all soap
Tap out air bubbles:
- Pick up mold and gently tap on counter 3-4 times
- This brings bubbles to surface
Smooth the top:
- Use spatula to smooth and level top surface
- Don't worry about perfection - rustic is fine!
Spray with alcohol:
- Immediately spray top surface with isopropyl alcohol (3-4 sprays)
- This prevents "soda ash" (harmless white powder)
- Hold bottle 6-8 inches away

STEP 6: INSULATE AND WAIT

Timing: 24-48 hours hands-off

Cover lightly:
- Place piece of cardboard or light towel over mold (not tightly sealed)
- Do NOT wrap in blankets - cacao butter + vanilla can cause overheating
Place in safe spot:
- Room temperature location
- Away from drafts
- Where it won't be disturbed
- Away from children/pets
Wait 24-48 hours:
- Soap needs to harden before unmolding
- It may get warm (even hot) - this is normal
- It may develop cracks on top - this is fine
- Do not peek or move for at least 24 hours

What's happening: Saponification (lye + oils becoming soap) continues, generating heat

STEP 7: UNMOLD AND CUT

Timing: 15-20 minutes (after 24-48 hour wait)

Check if ready to unmold (at 24 hours):
- Gently press corner - should feel firm like cold butter
- If still soft/jiggly, wait another 12-24 hours
- Don't rush this - soft soap is hard to cut
Unmold the loaf:
- Gently pull sides of silicone mold away from soap
- Carefully turn mold upside down
- Soap should release easily
- If stuck, wait another few hours
Cut into bars:
- Use sharp knife or wire cutter
- Cut loaf into 8-10 bars (about 1" thick each)
- Cuts don't need to be perfect!
- Wear gloves - soap is still caustic at this point
Spray cut sides with alcohol:
- Lightly spray all exposed cut surfaces
- This prevents soda ash on sides

What it should look like: Firm bars with vanilla bean specks throughout, tan/brown color from vanilla

STEP 8: CURE THE SOAP

Timing: 4-6 weeks (mostly hands-off)

Set up curing rack:
- Use wire cooling rack, wooden rack, or cardboard lined with parchment
- Needs air circulation on all sides
- Place in room with good airflow
Arrange bars:
- Place bars on rack with space between them
- Don't let bars touch each other
- Turn bars every few days for even air exposure
Wait 4-6 weeks minimum:
- Week 1-2: Soap continues hardening
- Week 2-4: Water evaporates, pH drops
- Week 4-6: Soap becomes milder and longer-lasting
- Do not use before 4 weeks - pH will be too high and harsh
Test when ready:
- After 4 weeks, test one bar
- Should feel hard and dry
- Lathers well, feels mild on skin
- If still soft, cure another 1-2 weeks

Ideal curing conditions:

Room temperature (60-75°F)
Low humidity
Good air circulation
Out of direct sunlight

CLEANUP

While soap is still in mold:

Don't wash tools immediately:
- Let any residual soap batter sit on tools for 24 hours
- It will saponify and become safer to clean
After 24 hours:
- Scrape excess soap from tools into trash
- Wash tools with hot water and dish soap
- Can go in dishwasher
Dispose of paper towels with raw soap in trash (not down drain)

Safety note: Never pour raw soap batter down drain - it can react with pipes

Ingredients list: Saponified oils of Tallow, Apricot Kernel, Coconut, Cacao Butter, Castor, Vanilla Bean

FINAL TIPS FOR SUCCESS

✓ Take your time - Don't rush any step ✓ Measure precisely - Soapmaking is chemistry ✓ Stay safe - Keep gloves and goggles on ✓ Be patient - Curing makes better soap ✓ Don't panic - Most "mistakes" still make usable soap ✓ Have fun - You're making something amazing!

You've got this! Take a deep breath, follow the steps, and enjoy the process.

Good luck with your first batch! 🧼✨

FOR FUTURE BATCHES:

Once you're comfortable with the basic process, you can experiment:

Batch 2: Add honey (0.32 oz, 9 g, or 2 tsp)
Batch 3: Add goat milk powder to melted oils, whisk until dissolved (2-3 Tbsp or 20-30 g)
Batch 4: Add both (full deluxe version)

You're basically making:

4 cups of mixed oils/fats (with tallow being almost half)
1¼ cups water + ⅓ cup lye
Plus a few tablespoons/teaspoons of goodies

RECIPE TOTAL VOLUME:

Raw soap batter: ~46.85 oz (1,328 ml)

Work quickly - you have maybe 5-10 minutes after trace before batter gets too thick

Containers

Material : Circular Silicone Molds

6 cavities Dome Circle Cabochon silicone soap mold
Dimension: 11.61"(L) x 6.85" (W) x 1.25" (H)
Dimension of Single Cavity: 2.5" (L) x 2.5" (W) x 1.25" (H)
Finished soap weight (Single Cavity) : 85g -95g

Note: With this recipe above, you can make about 11-12 individual round soaps. (I bought 2x molds to be able to use it all up)

2x Purple Rectangular Mold

The large one is approx. 11"x 3.5"x 3.4"
- Mold capacity: 45 oz, 1200ml (volume)
- The recipe above fits perfectly in this mold!
- How many bars:
  - If you cut bars 1 inch thick: 11 bars (11" loaf ÷ 1" = 11 bars)
  - If you cut bars 1.25 inches thick: 8-9 bars (a bit chunkier)
  - Most common: 10 bars at about 1.1" thick each
  Each bar weight (cured): ~90-100g per bar
The small one is 10.6"x 3"x 3.2"
- the volume is 32oz/900ml
- full makes 7-8 rectangular bars (~100-115g each)
- Filling it, you'd have 14-15 oz leftover (to make other molds, like 3-4 circular soaps)
- Tip: Slightly underfill the small loaf (leave ¼" from top) to ensure you have enough leftover for at least 3 full circles!
Cutters
- Wavy cutter is about: 7.3" x 4.8"
- Straight cutter about: 6" x 4.4".
- The soap cutter mold is approx.10"x 2.8"x 2.7"